![]() ![]() Unfortunately the only Immac I can find now on the internet is a brand of cosmetic. The wood behind the impregnation depth (grit your teeth and push the moisture meter prongs further in) has let go of moisture over the 4 weeks. The planks are still traditionally caulked and stopped with red-lead putty. So everything has turned out more stable, and stronger. There is still slow but sure moisture take-up and loss (just-visible shrinking at the moment after 4 weeks out of the water in our recent heat-wave). It is NOT a complete moisture barrier, as a normal epoxy would be. We had it done, and it has been very successful. He recommended impregnation with something called Immac clear penetrating epoxy resin - which was apparently originally developed to impregnate concrete! Ten years ago (just after purchase!), our surveyor found that our remaining original 1911 pitch pine planks (bottom three each side) were overly water-softened, with some wet rot. The mahogany runabout fraternity in the US - seem to be very keen advocates of this product, and some of their boats have had thousands of hours of effort devoted to restoration and finishing. The bad news is that it's expensive and it's not available in the UK - you've got to order it from the US, or from Scandinavia, and since it's got a high VOC content it will cost you a fortune in shipping - since it's ususally treated as hazardous. Many people claim that CPES greatly increases the bond between the wood and your varnish or paint, so that you won't need to paint your boat as often. It will also tend to reduce the movement of timbers so soaking up won't work - you'll need to have watertight joints before you launch your boat. If you apply it on dry timber then rot shouldn't be able to grow. The theory is that it soaks into the wood (very deeply in areas where there might be some rot degradation - you've removed the really rotten stuff of course!!), and then forms a seal which allows wood to change it's moisture content very very slowly. It's not a traditional epoxy but a by-product from the timber industry. Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer buy Smiths in the US. If you look at the Wooden boat forums there's also a very large number of people who use a product called CPES. It would be nice to see some testing data published. I would consider this a solid recommendation. However, it is interesting to note the similarities of Carnell's concoctions to the commercial products. I don't claim to be an expert, let alone an amatuer chemist. Most dramatically, it penetrates and kills rot quickly and thoroughly. The concoction has worked for me, though I haven't clinically tested it. bring to about 260 deg F (don't fight it. The gallon batches that I make keep indefinately (so far) without seperating.ฤก lb boric acid (available from ) It's quite easy, just be sure not to over cook. I have used the recipe that calls for combining ethylene glycol, boric acid, and borax into solution by boiling. This is similar to the recipe in a number of commercial products that are used in building construction, agriculture, and ship building to combat wood destroying insects and fungi. The key is combining Boric Acid with ethylene glycol into a solution. Here, he references all the other mentions of this solution in WB, and gives a pretty good abstract to sum it up. I don't have a link to post with this, but you can look up Pete Spectre's column, "On the Waterfront", WB 161, July/August 2001. See "On the Waterfront" column in WB 123, 131, 160 and "Wood Technology" column in WB 110, 149, 152, and 159. However, with a key ingredient added - Boric Acid. I believe I'm running a tad too rich with the choke fully open right now.For what it's worth, there is considerable support for ethylene glycol in Wooden Boat magazine. Any feedback one way or the other? Both carburators need fine tuning - I have adjusted the idles to _600rpm - they're running good but I need to fine tune them a bit more. I'm also debating whether or not to replace the automatic choke on both Carter AFBs to electric choke. Most people appear to be very positive on the conversion. I'm debating replacing the points with electronic ignition from Pertronix. This upcoming weekend will be focused on tune up - plugs, distributor rotor & cap for both engines. The original 2.5 copper exhaust pipes are still in good serviceable condition. This past weekend I replaced all of the rubber exhaust pipe fittings and elbows from the manifold on - they were badly deteriorated and starting to leak during high RPMs. I'm very happy and fortunate to have found this group of like minded enthusiasts. The exhaust manifold thing-a-mi-jigs that lead to the exhaust pipes are painted a different color - leading me to believe they have been replaced. I misspoke, I'm a Chris Craft & 283 rookie. Evansjw44 wrote:In 1963 CC 283s didn't have exhaust risers. ![]()
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